SPA Modeler

Well Stuart, being an Englander why aren't you just using Xtracolor enamels and being done with the whole debate?

Stuart wrote:It is indeed crazy.

jelliott523 wrote:There has been a lot of discussion on this on one of the FB groups I belong to. A couple of the YouTube video guys have discussed it as well. Some of the others that have experimented with it had similar results, some setting solutions worked better than others. I too, believe proper surface prep plays a big part of it. I'm not going to get into the whole debate over gloss vs. no need to gloss; that's just a can of stuff I dont want to open.

It's a shame that debate in FB keeps descending into what is basically a load of kids in the playground, because it's actually an interesting question. I'd love to dispense with the gloss coat but I've tried it two or three times and can't make it work - from that experience I'll be sticking with gloss.

I seem to get good results with and without gloss. I just wet the surface before adding the decals, and no problem. I have successfully placed decals on matte, satin and gloss surfaces. And if it's silvering you are worried about sometimes when you put the next layer of clear on, if you sand it down lightly then add a second layer it comes out just fine. Just my two cents... wait there goes all my money.

jeaton01 wrote:Well Stuart, being an Englander why aren't you just using Xtracolor enamels and being done with the whole debate?

Lol! Good point John, but I have to say that whilst I do still use a bit of Humbrol now and then, I've never really got on with Xtracolour, or their acrylics.

(I do use a lot of Citadel though - they're English!)

As a brush painter I really try to avoid gloss and satin paints, as they're terrible for showing up brush marks. I prefer to add a gloss or satin over the paint - the only problem with that is obviously you're adding one more layer that could obscure the surface detail and obviously it adds brush-marks, which is why I've tried going gloss-less before decals. I've had some good results but it's never been perfect, which is why for the mo I'll stick to adding the gloss

I'll admit that I always use a gloss before decals. It's pretty automatic for me since I've done it for so long, I expect and plan for the time it takes to apply and dry. It's quite routine for me.

I for one have never built an Eduard kit that I know of so this really isn't an issue for me; but the information is helpful to pass along to others who haven't seen the Facebook pages or vids.

Ok ok ok, I hear it !

I will still make a test with glossy surface, just to rule it in or out.

And if that works well, then I might even use the "for real" on my Zero, which is glossed

Stay tuned!

- Kari

Bret Green peels the film of before soaking the decals. Maybe that is the trick.

https://www.hyperscale.com/2021/galleri ... 48bg_1.htm

That's a great suggestion!
Many many thanks Remco sharing this info!

I will test this still today!

- Kari

And tested already, could not wait...

But Holy ghost, that was the trick!
And the carrier film comes really easy off!



This method works splendidly well for one-part-decals, like the roundels.

But as Brett Green also writes, one must be very very careful when applying the thin decal on the model.

One second or max two seconds in the water detaches the decal.

But look at the pic below, the decal comforted "just like that" in a panel line, no decal setting solutions etc was used here. Just very gently rubbing with a Qtip, underlining word "gently".



Suddenly Eduards decals became state of the art ones!



Once more Remco, a big thank you, you made my day! On top of that, on Christmas day!

- Kari

I am happy to hear that it works! But I am still a bit puzzled why Eduard would launch a new product without specific instructions.

Well, that is one you don’t see coming.....happy ther.evwas a, solution.