Clear parts

[AtomCat109]

What I did long ago was after coating the clear plastic in a gloss coat, scrape the mating area clean and glue using thin Mr Hobby cement. The parts will never come off, just be sure you are ready to commit once you crack open the glue!

[speedgraflex]

I use Pacer’s Canopy Glue for canopies and photo etch. I even used Pacer’s CG for white metal landing gear legs as a temporary fit, but I needed to build a frame to support the correct angle during the cure process. I use Novus and Flitz to polish plastic.

[Stuart]

What I did long ago was after coating the clear plastic in a gloss coat, scrape the mating area clean and glue using thin Mr Hobby cement. The parts will never come off, just be sure you are ready to commit once you crack open the glue!

Good point about the mating surfaces actually!

[AtomCat109]

When I say “I did” is only because of the break of when I lasted built a kit. Will be doing this method still even if there are better methods out there.

I learned to glue down what is staying closed.

[Stuart]

Oh me too - that's why I was using Tamiya extra thin - I had too many pop off with pva.

[jkim]

Mostly Tamiya Extra Thin for me and only once did I get a smear of fog. So I try to be very careful with application and not let any glue seep into the interior.

[Medicman71]

All my clear parts get a coat of future and I use Micro Kristal Klear to attach them.

[keavdog]

Future dip if needed and attach with testors glue for clear parts

[Duke Maddog]

I occasionally dip mine in Future when I can find my bottle. I use Micro Crystal Clear for gluing them in place and Gator Grip for filling tiny seams that need filling on between the plastic and the clear parts.

[Stuart]

Thanks Gents!