SPA Modeler

I recently purchased some 3-D printed parts for an upcoming project. After reading up on the items, one of the specifics mentioned about the material is to use acrylic hobby paints for painting, due to issues that have arisen in the past between the plastic material used and enamel paints. Solvents have a tendency to attack the plastic. My preferred primers are either enamels, such as Humbrol, or those that use a solvent based thinner such as Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer and Gunze Mr Surfacer. I have never heard one good thing about acrylic primers that do not use a solvent based thinner such as Model Master or Vallejo. Primarily they have adhesion issues. Can anybody recommend another brand of acrylic primer that you have used, and hopefully has used that primer on 3-D printed parts.

All you need is one primer..........Stynylrez Primer. You can get it quick and cheap on Amazon. It self levels, dries quick and will even fill small scratches. It's the best I've ever used and I'll never go back to anything else.

I agree 100% with Medic!

However, on this side of the pond it's easier to find MIG Ammos "One Shot" Primer, which is precisely and exactly the same stuff as Stynylrez.
I am very happy with it, it's quite thick though when using it directly from the bottle, so you might want to thin it a little bit.



- Kari

I've become a huge fan of Ammo's products so I may have to check those out too.

Medicman71 wrote: I've become a huge fan of Ammo's products so I may have to check those out too.

The only miss with the bottle is the cap... A warm recommendation... unscrew the cap instead of using the "pull-open-push-close" mechanics, it's a messy construction.. either it stucks when the primer dries or then while closing the lid, the paint just splashes "everywhere" ...

First I always tried to keep the cap clean... but after a while I just gave up and unscrewed the cap instead...



- Kari

It's not much better with the Badger stuff.

ONE SHOT, DONT MISS

Wow! I wanted to learn more about the “One Shot” Series, and you gents have opened up even more possibilities... and details from those in the know! You gents are the best.

WHITE STRONG FLEXIBLE

You didn’t mention what type of material so I am gonna assume that it is this stuff, so my direct experience with WSF is (1) if you use water to clean the surfaces, let that air dry completely due to the porous nature; (2) treat the primer as a filler first; work up to a final smooth layer by a lot of 400 grit wet only shananigans; and (3) any primer you use let it cure 36-48 hours on WSF, then work up the grit food chain until you are at the 1K level.

The main buzz killer with WSF is the surface: to get a smooth surface on the White Strong and Flexible material you're going to need to use a "Filler Primer,” with a high solids content designed to fill surface texture. You will also have to do a bunch of sanding. With a little bit of careful work you should be able to get a perfectly smooth, texture free surface.

Since you mentioned wanting a primer recommendation specifically, I used Rustoleum 2X on a DL-44 Blaster made entirely from WSF, both as primer and color coats. I know this is a fine scale project not a prop so I am including that intel as information only, but lemme tell ya, Rustoleum 2X worked a treat.

HAN SHOT FIRST.

The stuff to be painted is called “Frosted 3-D Printed Plastic”, a whole new medium to me. This is from the Shapeways website regarding the material.

Some part cleanup will be necessary. The 3D printing process uses a waxy substance to support certain part features. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild aqueous detergent like "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Customers report that "Bestine" and "Goo Gone" also work well.

During the printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured. Let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours to fully cure the resin.

Water-based acrylic paints meant for plastics is strongly recommended. Other paints, especially enamels, may not cure on Frosted Detail 3D-printed plastics.

Anyways, thanks for the suggestions. Brookhurst Hobbies carries the Mig stuff mentioned here, so that sounds like a good excuse to go visit. One of the local Train shops carries Badger paints, so if they have the Stynylrez, I can look into that stuff. Online ordering is my last option. Thanks for the ideas guys.

Just out of curiosity Stik - what are the 3D printed parts that you're painting?

portman wrote:Just out of curiosity Stik - what are the 3D printed parts that you're painting?

The parts are mostly 1/300 ship weapons. 20mm Oerlikons, 40mm twin Bofors, Torpedo Tubes, 5” Gun turrets, and 25 man square “Carley Floats”. I have a ship project that I promised for a good friend several years back and will be starting it shortly. I have started gathering all the items I need to improve the kit required for the project, and now I almost have all of them. The stuff out there in 3-D printed parts in every conceivable scale is mind boggling.