SPA Modeler

I would love to know how you paint these surrounds, and especially any details you might share about how you created this color...



Brent mentioned the 109 Lair. I am sure you have been but when I read wiring colors above I thought, “Just in case.” So. Just in case:

http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/index1024.htm

Bro, that cockpit and IP you’ve built-up are both exceptionally good.

Now you’re showing off!

Wow. Just mind boggling work! Wow...

Oh my, that IP is impressing!


- Kari

Good Lord!! The work on that cluster is simply outstanding. Very good replication John.

I'm with Clint on that leather boot at the base of the control column. What was your process for painting and effects on that?

Thanks for the comments, gentlemen!

speedgraflex wrote:I would love to know how you paint these surrounds, and especially any details you might share about how you created this color...

Brent mentioned the 109 Lair. I am sure you have been but when I read wiring colors above I thought, “Just in case.” So. Just in case:

http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/index1024.htm

For the dials, it was just careful brush painting. Paint consistency is very important when detail painting and I'd rather have it on thin side than too thick. Since Tamiya acrylics dry so quickly, I use the paint bottle lid as my palette and put a drop or two of iso alcohol to act as a thinner/retardant. Since the central part of the instrument is covered by a decal, you have some room for error. You can also use the punch to create circular masks but I chose to do this manually.

I don't remember which color I used for the brown dial, honestly. For browns, I primarily use Tamiya X-9 Brown, XF-64 Red Brown or XF-52 Flat Earth. I THINK I used the Flat Earth for that color. Whichever color it was, it was straight out of the bottle.

mustang1989 wrote:Good Lord!! The work on that cluster is simply outstanding. Very good replication John.

I'm with Clint on that leather boot at the base of the control column. What was your process for painting and effects on that?

The leather boot was first painted with my darkest brown, which is Tamiya X-9. I then highlighted the raised folds with a lighter brown, Flat Earth. I gave it a black pastel wash and then dry-brushed a light tan color (XF-59 Desert Yellow, I believe) on select highlights to finish it off.

Thanks to the generosity of an LSP member, I've received resin exhaust chutes so I don't have to make my own. These have a curved surface on the downwind edge of the chute that would've been hard to replicate.



I've performed some corrections to the central belly portion based on an excellent article by Vince K. These include filling in the vent in the center, opening up the Mk 108 chute and putting in some breather outlets for the engine. Some questions were asked along the way regarding components of the correction and Vince himself was kind enough to elaborate on the reasoning behind these changes. As you can see, the Mk108 chute needs to be blocked off since the wing spar part is visible.


The exhaust tips have been previously hollowed out. There exhaust deflectors supplied as separate parts in this kit but they are on the thick side.



Instead of trying to thin them, I thought it would be easier to replace them with brass sheeting.


The port side deflector has a bend to deflect the hot exhausts away from the supercharger intake.


Much better in-scale representation, I think!

Looking great John, the brass deflectors are a nice touch.

Thanks Clint!

As you've probably noticed, the side consoles have not been painted yet. One reason is simply procrastination. But I just got another reason. Vincent, the author of the 109K belly modification article, has offered to send me a small sheet of K-4 stencils that he produced with MDC. It's the one on the right in the photo below.


It's got some K-4 specific stencils that I don't have including some circuit breaker labels for the cockpit sidewalls.