SPA Modeler

speedgraflex wrote:”Faux Dremel” is a euphemism amongst modelers and other crafters, I presume? I actually must confess ignorance to the term, and I am curious to learn more. Is it simply too time consuming to file down the shell by hand, considering the rigidity of plastic?

I realize these are basic questions, but I am curious...

Also: one hell of a job with the IP!

Bruce,

Its a little bit tongue in cheek as Dremel is a distinct brand with a particular usage of tool. They are expensive (or at least were when they first hit the scene) but you get what you pay for, a well crafted, reliable item. Like any good tool, it has spawned a plethora of copies that may or may not provide the same level of service or longevity but they are affordable.Take a wander through eBay or indeed any large hardware store and you will see "motor tools" of varying brand and price. In fact their existence may have forced the price of the actual item into the more affordable price range! I would like to say I made it up but I am sure I have heard it somewhere and it just stuck. Maybe not and I can claim it as mine!

You are 100 percent correct with the assertion that it could be done by hand tools, low grit sandpaper and elbow grease, however it would take a little time and I obviously do need to practice so I dont break through plastic!

Here are some pics of the tool, a Taurus and the set up. I do have a Dremel work stand as it was on special and the Taurus will fit.










Regards,

The Dremel (and its faux cousins) are very handy tools. Not only for cutting and grinding but polishing too.

Thanks Gents,

Some progress in that the cockpit has been installed. It didn’t go as flawlessly as I had hoped. At the same time the sidewalls revealed the little seam issue, I recalled I had the same issue on my Bf 109E-7. Not to be outwitted, I filled the seams with some thinned styrene sheet and will level and repaint:





The steely eyed amongst you may have detected the flash of white on the starboard side, below the cockpit. I had another small break through. I pondered how the repair it then just shoved some styrene card to fill the hole, applied Tamiya Extra Thin and waited until it was dry. Then simply a matter of trimming the excess:



Here’s an overexposed shot to get that interior detail:



I then turned to the lower wings and competed the task of assembling the PE in the wheel bays. I also marked out the holes I would need to drill, in a manner I would not easily forget:





Finally for this update, there is some moulded detail on the upper and lower edges of the exhaust openings that was removed with a micro chisel to facilitate the PE shroud guards:





It has been tidied up a bit more since the photo. Working on the underwing cannon gondolas, drop tank and the MLG before bringing out the RLM 02.

Regards,

Looking good!

Those PE parts in the wheel bays really makes a huge difference! Sad part of course, it will be difficult to see in the ready build, but it's there and mirrors are invented! :-)

- Kari

Very nice! The brass parts for the landing gear wells is much better looking than my caveman hole-making method!

This is coming along very well! Mi gusta!!

Slow progress as I have had other things on my plate. This weekend just gone by was the NSW Scale Model Show and expo my club hosts. Over 350 entries in 43 categories, vendor tables and the ever funky swap and sell. We judge gold, silver and bronze in the categories and I came home with two gold and two silver so a happy camper.

I had planned to have this finished for the show but that was always a loose plan. Anyway back to the action. I am working at closing up the fuselage shortly and as it is a monotone colour scheme, I thought I might try my hand at John’s black marbling basework. The wings are now together and ready to be attached. I followed John’s lead in using the plastic kit pieces rather that the PE, as not much will be seen at all. The faces of the oil cooler and radiators were painted in XF84 Dark Iron and then highlighted with Tamiya Weathering set “gun metal”. Not any of which will really be seen:




The wings are now set to be installed, however before that takes place I have to install the resin exhaust plates in their positions in the cowling. Hence why everything is still open down the front end. I had previously sprayed them RLM02 and now just picked out the actual engine areas in XF84 dark iron:



Once these are installed, I can install the gun trough piece. I decided to use a spare pair of Master Barrel MG131 tips I had laying around. These are longer than the kit pieces which meant a fixing the trough inserts into the underside of the upper cowl and then drilling out the rear of the trough inserts and aligning them so they will sit properly once permanently installed:











I will smooth out the rough edges from drilling and filing but the fit seems good. It was then time to dry fit all the components and see what I was left with. Everything lined up well but I was left with a wing/fuselage gap. I could see the underside needed a little adjustment so I cut and installed a sprue spreader just behind the yet to be installed exhaust positions. Once this had set, another dry fit saw a much better result:











Once actually glued and cleaned up, I am confident of a good result. The canopy masks have also been applied so once I tidy up the cockpit sills with some putty and a new coat of RLM66, I should be ready to start sealing it all up.

Regards,

kahunaminor wrote:Slow progress as I have had other things on my plate. This weekend just gone by was the NSW Scale Model Show and expo my club hosts. Over 350 entries in 43 categories, vendor tables and the ever funky swap and sell. We judge gold, silver and bronze in the categories and I came home with two gold and two silver so a happy camper.

Say what, that is fantastic !

Congratulations for the excellent results Kent !

Now I guess we all want to see those 4 subjects !!

- Kari